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These instructions are designed for the first-time Brewer. What follows can be considered an annotated recipe for a fool-proof Ale beer. Why an Ale beer? Because Ales are the simplest to brew. Brewing Beer is simple and complicated, easy and hard. Compare it to fishing - Sit on the end of the dock with a can of worms and a cane pole and you will catch fish. Going after a specific kind of fish is when fishing gets complicated. Brewing the specific kind of beer you want is the same thing. There are many different styles of beer and many techniques to brew them.
Brewing a beer is a combination of several general processes. First is the mixing of ingredients and bringing the solution (wort) to a boil. Second is the cooling of the wort to the fermentation temperature. Next the wort is transferred to the fermenter and the yeast is added. After fermentation, the raw beer is siphoned off the yeast sediment and bottled with a little extra sugar to provide the carbonation. But there are three important things to keep in mind every time you brew: Cleanliness, Preparation and Good Record Keeping.
Cleanliness
Cleanliness is the foremost concern of the brewer.
After all, Fermentation is the manipulation of living organisms, the yeast. Providing good growing conditions for the yeast in the beer also provides good growing conditions for other micro-organisms, including bacteria. Cleanliness must be maintained throughout every stage of the brewing process.
Preparation
Take the time to prepare your brewing area. Have the ingredients ready on the counter. Prepare your brewing water. Have the ice on- hand to cool the wort when its done boiling. Is the Fermenter clean and sanitized? Make sure that all equipment is clean and ready to go before starting. Patience and planning are necessities.
Record Keeping
Always keep good notes on what ingredients, amounts and times were used in the brewing process. The brewer needs to be able to repeat good batches and learn from poor ones.
Brewing Terms: The following terms will be used throughout these instructions. Many of the terms come from German and appropriate pronunciations are given. On the other hand, German pronunciation is optional.
Ale
A beer brewed from a top-fermenting yeast with a relatively short, warm fermentation.
Alpha Acid Units (AAU)
A homebrewing measurement of Hops. Equal to the weight in ounces multiplied by the percent of Alpha Acids.
Attenuation
The degree of conversion of sugar to alcohol and CO2.
Beer
Any beverage made by fermenting malted barley and seasoning with Hops.
Cold Break
Proteins that coagulate and fall out of solution when the wort is rapidly cooled prior to Pitching the yeast.
Conditioning
An aspect of Secondary Fermentation in which the yeast refine the flavors of the final beer. Conditioning continues in the bottle.
Fermentation
The total conversion of malt sugar to beer, defined here as two parts, Primary and Secondary.
Hops
Hop vines are grown in cool climates and brewers make use of the cone-like flowers. The dried cones are available in Pellets, Plugs, or whole.
Hot Break
Proteins that coagulate and fall out of solution during the wort boil.
Gravity
Like density, gravity describes the concentration of malt sugar in the wort. The specific gravity of water is 1.000 at 59F. Typical beer worts range from 1.035
1.055 before fermentation (Original Gravity).
International Bittering Units (IBU)
A more precise method of measuring Hops. Equal to the AAU multiplied by factors for percent utilization, wort volume and wort gravity.
Krausen (kroy-zen)
Used to refer to the foamy head that builds on top of the beer during fermentation. Also an advanced method of priming.
Lager
A beer brewed from a bottom-fermenting yeast and given a long cool fermentation.
Pitching
Term for adding the yeast to the fermenter.
Primary Fermentation
The initial fermentation activity marked by the evolution of carbon dioxide and Krausen. Most of the total attenuation occurs during this phase.
Priming
The method of adding a small amount of fermentable sugar prior to bottling to give the beer carbonation.
Racking
The careful siphoning of the beer away from the Trub.
Secondary Fermentation
A period of settling and conditioning of the beer after Primary Fermentation and before bottling.
Trub (trub or troob)
The sediment at the bottom of the fermenter consisting of Hot and Cold Break material and dead yeast.
Wort (wart or wert)
The malt-sugar solution that is boiled prior to fermentation.
Zymurgy
The science of Brewing and Fermentation.
Required Equipment
Airlock
Several styles are available. Fill to the water line with boiled water and cap it (if it has one).
Boiling Pot
Must be able to comfortably hold a minimum of 3 gallons; bigger is better. Use only Stainless Steel, Ceramic- coated Steel, or Aluminum. Plain steel will give off-flavors.
Bottles
Two cases of recappable 12 oz bottles. Use Corona or heavier glass import bottles. Twist-offs do not work well. Used champagne bottles are ideal if you can find them.
Bottle Capper
Either Hand Capper or Bench Capper. Bench Cappers are more versatile and are needed for the champagne bottles, but are more expensive.
Bottle Caps
Either standard or oxygen absorbing are available.
Bottle Filler
Rigid plastic (or metal) tube with spring loaded valve at the tip for filling bottles.
Bottle Brush
Necessary for first, hard-core cleaning of used beer bottles.
Fermenter(s)
The 6 gallon food-grade plastic pail is recommended for beginners. These are very easy to work with. Glass carboys are also available, in 5, 6, and 7.5 gallon sizes.
Racking Cane
Rigid plastic tube with sediment stand-off.
Siphon/Hose
Available in several configurations, consisting of clear plastic tubing with optional Racking Cane and Bottle Filler.
Stirring Paddle
Food grade plastic paddle (spoon) for stirring the wort during boiling.
Thermometer
Obtain a thermometer that can be safely immersed in the wort and has a range of at least 40F to 150F. The floating dairy thermometers are great.Optional but Highly Recommended
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